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A HUMANE SOCIETY OF CENTRAL FLORIDA PET RESCUE INC.             Issue - 2011

HOUSEBREAK YOUR NEW PUPPY 

Contrary to the way your parents may have tried to housebreak the new family puppy, don't smack it, yell or rub its nose in it, when it has an accident.  Clean it up quietly unless you catch it in the act, because it really doesn't understand why you are scaring or hurting it but it will think you don't want to see it go potty and start hiding it in another room, or behind a chair.   Eight week old puppies require going out to potty every half hour,  eventually, only able to 'hold it' by the time it is about six months old.   So plan on adapting until then, because not being able to 'hold it' isn't its fault.   You have assumed the role of dog ownership, stick with the responsible thing to do, learn how to do things right.   Keep to a schedule, use common sense, buy a crate for it only to be able to lay down on his side and stretch out.   Preferably, one that has an extra divider to expand the size of his cave as he grows.   Read the books, train from the Internet, take it to puppy classes, and then to obedience classes. Watch the Dog Whisperer on TV, or buy the training tapes, practice 10-15 minutes twice each day.   There are several places in the county to go to classes with the dog, including classes at the county shelter, for a very reasonable fee. 

 

A NEW FAMILY MEMBER

Your new dog should be a member of the family and be a house pet.   Buy a dog crate that he will fit into when he is grown. Put him in it, with a digestible treat, when you are unable to watch him - after he relieves himself.   Unless you want to train your new puppy to eliminate IN your home, do NOT put newspapers on your floor or direct him to them.   You are unknowingly teaching your puppy that it is okay to relieve itself in the house.   Many animals never make the transition to 'go potty' outside, and continue to potty in the house.   After your puppy has finished eating and drinking, or napping, give the verbal command "Outside", and carry him outside, until he is too heavy to carry.   Stay outside with the puppy until he has completed both functions.   This may take 10 - 20 minutes, but don't leave him, or engage in any play activity, until he has relieved himself.   Don't put him out the door by himself, creating a degree of stress about being in a place where he is all alone.   Allow the puppy 15-20 minutes to eat, and drink as much as it desires 2-3 times a day, depending on its age, at consistently scheduled feeding times. Moistened dry dog food begins to ferment within a very short time, which can cause nausea, 'bloat ' and deadly 'torsion' which can kill your dog within an hour or more."   Promptly pick up the food and carry the pup outside. (Allow the new puppy 15-20 minutes to eat, and drink as much as it desires 2-3 times a day, depending on its age, at consistently scheduled feeding times.)   You should not give your puppy any other food, except at meal time, while you are house training.  

Control the food and water- to control when the pup has to relieve himself.   Get up earlier, after your puppy has finished eating, drinking, or napping, give the verbal command "Outside", and CARRY him outside every time, until you are no longer able.   Outside immediately after it eats, sleeps, plays and sniffs the floor.   Stay outside, while the puppy is on a leash until he has completed both functions.   This may take 10 - 20 minutes, but don't leave him or engage in any play activity, until he has finished.   Remember, if he has not done his job outside, he will have to go inside, so, patiently, keep him out until he has gone.   Quietly, repeat the same verbal command, such as "Hurry up" or "Go Potty"  when he finds a spot and while he is eliminating.   As soon as he is finished, you must praise him verbally and physically.   Most puppies and dogs learn this exercise in 7-10 days.   Be patient, and don't try to rush him.  The pup only learns if you are able to convey the message clearly, after it is able to hold it and make it habit.   You must be aware of age appropriate expectations as you would a baby.   This is a good foundation for the rest of its life, so stick with it.

Tip: Use a sudsy household ammonia solution and pour it in the area of the yard you want him to “go”. Allow it to seep into the soil, then expose him to that area. The dog will be attracted to the smell of the ammonia and will begin using it as his own elimination area.

The owner of the little pet had passed away so what happens to the little guy?

Sometimes the pet is set loose to find its own new home or wanders to find

"Mom"- if may survive the night! 

The neighbors may take it, but they may get tired

of the extra pet and give it away or take it to the county shelter.

Just before kennel shock, or kennel cough, or worse yet, 'death row' gets the best of the little guy, a foster from a local rescue may find it.

Or the whole scenario can be different and the Rescue can foster it right away

at a home environment, reduce it's stress and then find it a forever home.

Please call us to help plan and make arrangements to have your pets rescued immediately, if anything should happen to you or someone you know.

Letter of Instruction

Anyone may be asked at some time to take over the affairs of another individual because of a death or an illness. This responsibility would be much easier if a letter of instruction has been prepared. Such a letter would save much time, trouble, and probably expense. As estate plans are completed, it is recommended that such a letter be developed.

Unlike a will, there are no legal requirements for a letter of instruction. Therefore, it can be handwritten or typed. It need not be witnessed and can say whatever you wish. Because a letter of instruction is not a binding legal document, it cannot be a substitute for a properly executed will. A will is essential to direct the disposition of your property. A letter of instruction gives survivors and those you have named to act for you helpful guidelines to facilitate your wishes.

Those you want to act in your place should know that the letter is to be opened immediately if you are incapacitated, or upon death. It would be wise to give copies to your attorney, named executor, spouse, grown child, or friend who could step in and handle your affairs. At a minimum, these persons should know where the letter of instruction is located. It may also be wise to attach a copy of the letter to your will and keep it with your important papers. It should be periodically reviewed and updated.

Many attorneys, trust officers, and insurance companies have forms and a list which will help prepare a letter of instruction.

Vaccine Canine Vaccines: The Shocking Truth About Yearly Boosters

We’re all familiar with those postcards from our veterinarians about canine vaccines, telling us that it’s time for Max or Molly to get their yearly boosters. But if you’ve read our articles on dog vaccinations and Jonas's vaccination story , by now you’re probably wondering if those yearly shots are really helping – or if they might actually be hurting our canine companions. I’m certain that after you review the following table on dog vaccines, you are going to be even more concerned about subjecting your furry kid to annual vaccine boosters. This table is courtesy of Ron Schultz, PhD, chair of the Department of Pathobiological Sciences at the University of Wisconsin-Madison School of Veterinary Medicine and one of the foremost researchers in the world on animal vaccines.

Dr. Schultz has been studying animal vaccines for more than 30 years. A good deal of his research concentrates on the duration of immunity provided by vaccines. In other words, how long exactly is a dog protected from a disease once he is vaccinated? As you'll see in this table, Dr. Schultz’s research demonstrates that immunity for the core vaccines (except rabies) lasts for many years. Why not print this page and take it with you to your veterinarian and use it as a starting point for a discussion about canine over-vaccination? You might also want to think about this question posed by Dr. Schultz: “Why, when you know from personal experience that life-long immunity exists for many human vaccines, do you have great difficulty believing a canine vaccine can provide life-long immunity?” Interesting question, don’t you think?

What Everyone Needs to Know About Canine Vaccines and Vaccination Programs

CORE VACCINES: 

 Canine Distemper Virus (CDV)   Rockborn Strain  7 yrs/15 yrs   challenge/serology

Onderstepoort Strain  5 yrs/9 yrs   challenge/serology

CanarypoxVectored rCDV  3 yrs/4 yrs  challenge/serology

Canine Adenovirus-2 (CAV-2  )7 yrs/9 yrs  challenge-CAV-1/serology

Canine Parvovirus-2 (CPV-2)  7 yrs/10 yrs  challenge/serology

Canine Rabies  3 yrs/5 yrs  challenge/serology

© Copyright 2007

Ronald D. Schultz, Professor and Chair

Department of Pathobiological Sciences

School of Veterinary Medicine

University of Wisconsin-Madison, Madison, WI 53706

Presented at the 2007 AKC Health Foundation, St. Louis MO

Vaccine Seminar Notes from a friend:

Vaccine Seminar in Ct. on Saturday along with Dr. Mary Stankovics. The seminar featured Dr. Ron Schultz (DVM, PhD), who is a Professor and Department Chair of the Dept. of Pathobiological Sciences at the School of Veterinary Medicine at the University of Wisconsin. Dr. Schultz is a leading pioneer in veterinary immunology, and has been hard at work studying vaccines and their effects and effectiveness for over forty years. He has done research for very major vaccine makers, as well as for various other institutions. His information was well presented and very enlightening. While he may be considered a maverick by some, Dr. Schultz in no way suggests that we should not vaccinate our dogs! In fact, he says the three most important things we give our puppies, is Training, Love, and Vaccines!

I forwarded one of Dr. Schultz's papers, "Considerations in Designing Effective and Safe Vaccination Programs for Dogs" in a separate e-mail. PLEASE print it out and share it with your vet! Understand your options, and discuss them with your vet BEFORE you agree to ANY vaccinations. NEVER allow yourself to be talked into ANY medical treatment or procedure you don't understand or are not comfortable with. It is your responsibility to be an advocate for your pet! If your vet will not work with you on ANY important issue, you need to find one who will. 

PLEASE consider what Dr. Schultz is saying and recommending, have your vet read his papers, and take his advice to heart for the sake of your dog. In light of all the cancers and auto-immune problems we are seeing in people as well as pets, we can't afford to keep going about vaccination as naively as we have in the past. Dr. Schultz's study is not limited to academia and laboratories. He is in the trenches all over the world working with shelters, humane societies, rescue groups, breeders, breed clubs, pet owners and anyone else who cares about dogs. His many years of study reflect his passion and his diversity of experience that few other doctors or scientists share. 

 Bear in mind, that the first duty of a medical professional is to DO NO HARM. Rather than merely dwelling on the risks of vaccinations, which are relatively small in the general population, Dr. Schultz suggests that it is paramount that we "Don't do what is not needed." Everything we do has an effect down the road that we can't always anticipate, so it makes more sense to proceed cautiously. While negative vaccine reactions are uncommon in the population as a whole, they may pose more problems within certain families or species. Reactions can be mild or severe; even fatal. If there is a genetic predisposition, vaccines may trigger auto-immune reactions and exacerbate or potentiate cancer. We have to make a Benefit/Risk assessment when we use any medicines and vaccines, asking these questions: 

1) What is the risk of infection?

2) What is the risk of disease? (note: infection and disease are NOT synonymous)

3) What is the risk of adverse reaction? (Keeping in mind that even with the risk of 1 in 10,000, if that ONE is YOU or YOUR dog, you will not think it was a good risk.) 

4) What is the benefit derived? In some cases, situational concerns (i.e., shelters) and geographic location (endemic or epidemic areas) may affect risk determination. 

 We also need to remember that vaccines are not the only defense we have against pathogens. We rely on: 

A) Innate/natural immunity which is present from birth and operates against any substance (i.e., skin, stomach acid, vomiting, etc.). This innate immunity is not enhanced by prior exposure, and improves with age until it gradually declines in old age. This non-specific immunity is aided by GOOD NUTRITION and GOOD HEALTH. B) Acquired/adaptive immunity which is specific in its defense against individual pathogens, and is enhanced by prior exposure, i.e., thymus and bone marrow, which manufacture all the cells in the immune system, lymph nodes, tonsils, spleen, etc.

Dr. Schultz reminds us also that many researchers looking for the best possible solution to a problem may be very narrow-minded in their vision. This has resulted in many "mistakes" in the past, which are not always easy or possible to correct. Dr. Schultz believes we must consider a more wholistic approach WRT vaccine protocols. There is always potential for another negative reaction to occur that we did not anticipate. In the case of vaccines, the two systems most affected are the endocrine systems and the neurologic systems. Not something to take lightly! 

Another important factor to consider is that while vaccines are promoted to be SAFE and EFFECTIVE, this applies to LABORATORY ANIMALS IN LABORATORY SETTINGS. Much different than the average pet dog! 

So what does this mean? When do we vaccinate and what do we vaccinate for????

 One idea that really impressed me, is that breeders can now effectively address the problem of WHEN to vaccinate effectively. One dilemma with vaccination has been that we didn't know how long maternal antibodies were effective. These antibodies are passed from mother to pup through the placenta (5%) , and also in the colostrum the pups receive in the first 72 hours of life (95%). As it grows, the puppy must soon develop its own immune response, as this passive immunity declines by half every 12 days. SO- if we vaccinate too early, we run the risk of the vaccine not being effective because of the interference of the maternal antibodies. And if we vaccinate too late, we risk leaving the puppy vulnerable to infection once the maternal antibodies are no longer protective to the pup. Dr. Schultz suggested that we can use a chart called a nomograph to determine exactly when this optimum window occurs. We can send a blood sample to Cornell, taken from the pregnant bitch not closer than 2 weeks before whelping, and apply the results to the nomograph to give us our answer of exactly when to vaccinate.

 

By vaccinating according to the traditional schedules based on guesswork, some pups will develop immunity after one vaccination, and others not until after 2 or 3. And because once immunity is reached, MORE VACCINES DO NOT OFFER MORE BENEFIT (and indeed pose potential risk), naturally we want to gain maximum benefit with a minimal program. It is also important to note that some dogs may prove to be non-responders, meaning that NO amount of vaccination will offer them immunity to a particular pathogen. This is something we can and SHOULD determine by doing titers. (more on that later) 

 Dr. Schultz's studies have consistently shown that the "good" vaccines ( Intervet, Ft. Dodge, Merial, Pfizer Animal health and Schering Plough Animal Health) provide at least 3 years of immunity, and Distemper, Parvo and Adenovirus provide a minimum of 7-9 years, which is really lifetime immunity for a dog. The reason he is suggesting (in his paper) that vaccines not be given more often than every 3 years, (rather than just once in a lifetime as his studies show are sufficient) is not based on the fact that they will not provide immunity longer than 3 years, but rather that the established veterinary community will need time to adjust to the idea that these vaccines are good for the life of the dog, once immunity is reached. So as a compromise measure to the veterinary establishment, he "formally" suggests NOT MORE THAN EVERY 3 YEARS. You can run titers every few years if you are worried about loss of immunity, but any number above ZERO means that you have protection. Worth noting: Dr. Schultz vaccinates his own dogs only ONCE, and then titers. We have been doing the same for a number of years with good results. 

So what vaccines should we be giving our pets? Dr. Schultz breaks them into two groups he calls CORE vaccines and NON-CORE vaccines. After attending his seminar (and learning that he gives only core vaccines to his own dogs), we are even more convinced that only core vaccines are needed or desirable. (Consult the charts in his article for specific programs and discuss them with your vet. We personally use and recommend only the two minimal approaches - ("D" and "A") with NO non-core additions. 

Rabies is the ONLY Vaccine required by law. The USDA tests only the minimum duration of effectiveness, not the outer end, so we must vaccinate for rabies every 3 years according to law, even though Dr. Schultz has proven the effectiveness lasts much longer.  

The most critical vaccines for puppies are distemper and parvo, because those diseases are prevalent in the animal population and can kill a puppy in hours. Distemper and Parvo vaccines should be first administered by themselves (as a D/P combo) so that the pup can mount the strongest immune response to them. Additional vaccines (if needed) can be administered after the second D/P shot and following a positive titer (2 weeks later) to be sure adequate immunity has been reached. (If no titer is reached after the second shot, the pup is a non-responder, meaning it will never have immunity to that agent. This puts it into a high risk category because it will get sick and maybe even die if it is exposed to that disease. So you must act accordingly)  

Why should we vaccinate less with core vaccines? 

1) Because the Duration Of Immunity (DOI) for CDV, (Distemper) CPV-2, (Parvo) and CAV-2 (infectious hepatitis) is 7-10 years. 

2) Because Vaccinating more often than every 3 years adds NO benefit 

3) Because the risk of adverse reactions, no matter how low, from the administration of a medical product that is not required, is an unacceptable medical practice. 

We CAN determine if DOI has been reached! 

1) Through challenge with virulent agents (good for researchers but not practical for us as pet owners) 

2) Through serology- (titers) . THERE IS AN EXCELLENT RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN ANTIBODY TITER AND PROTECTION. 

So what does this mean to you? Here is what we suggest based on Dr. Schultz's extensive research and recommendations. 

1) First vaccine- Distemper/Parvo at 6-8 weeks (which we gave at 8 weeks) 

2) Second vaccine D/P 3 weeks later. (11 weeks in this case) 

3) Then titer (SEND TO CORNELL!) 2 weeks later to be sure immunity had been reached. (If your pup is a non-responder, re-vaccinate only the single component that didn't produce the response. Then titer again 2 weeks later. If still no response, treat your animal as a high risk.) 

4) If you have demonstrated immunity (as shown by the titer), you are protected for at LEAST 3 years, and Dr. Schultz's studies indicate you are good for LIFE. More vaccination offers NO benefit, but still poses all the risks. 

5) If you determine you need more than the D/P vaccine, you can do a combo shot 3 weeks later. (14 weeks in this case) We would consider the addition of the 2 adenoviruses and parainfluenza as the maximum protection needed (5-way) under normal circumstances in our area. 

**6) Lepto, Bordatella, Borrelia, Lyme, Giardia or any other non-core vaccines are NOT recommended. 

**7) Rabies- NO EARLIER than 12-16 weeks. Can wait till 6 mos. if you are vigilant, which is what we do. Then one year later, and then every 3 years, as required by law. 

Misc. Notes: 

**Vaccines take effect almost immediately.

Many dogs may become infected, but few develop clinical symptoms. 

**Corona Vaccine is a vaccine in search of a disease. Do not give. 

Do not vaccinate pregnant animals under any circumstances.

**Lyme vaccines have a high rate of false positives. (>10%) They cannot provide sterile immunity, therefore they don't prevent infection, therefore they don't prevent disease. 

Lyme vaccines also pose the added risk of inducing Lyme related arthritis which is an immune disorder, which is much worse than Lyme disease itself. 

If you MUST vaccinate for Lyme, use outer surface protein only. In case of doubt, treat according to the dog, not the test results. 

**Do not use giardia vaccines. 

**Lepto vaccines are the most reactogenic, have a short duration of immunity (2-6 mos!), serologic results can indicate Lepto, but not which strain, most infections are sub-clinical.

**Bacterial vaccinations are the riskiest, and should not be combined with the viral vaccines. (Bordatella, Leptospirosis, Borrelia) 

Bacterial vaccines are the most dangerous because they are adjuvants themselves. They drive immune response to hypersensitivity. Bacterial adjuvants can trigger auto-immune disease. ( i.e. neurological and endocrine problems) 

****Modified Live Viruses (MLV) are the safest from an auto-immune standpoint. 

DO NOT use killed vaccines in animals predisposed to auto-immunity. 

If you do use combination vaccines, first get your immune response to the viruses without the bacteria. (D/P, or D/P/A) Then you can add the combo afterwards with the addition of the bacteria. (Bacteria drive responses needed for viruses in the wrong direction)

A deficiency of vitamin E and Selenium can prevent vaccines from being effective. 

Any time you vaccinate a new puppy for Parvo, you are automatically re-vaccinating your other dogs at the same time, as the vaccine is shed in the feces for 3-7 days and transfer to the other dogs. (also through the air and oral exposure) 

 

We hope this helps you to better understand the benefits and risks of vaccinations for your dog, and to determine a safe and effective immunization program that you and your vet are comfortable with, and which is optimal for you dog from a holistic standpoint.  

HEMOPET CONTACT

Dr. Jean Dodds:

Home Office: (Mon/Tues/Fri)

Phone 310/ 828-4804 --Pacific Time

Fax: 310/ 828-8251

938 Stanford St.

Santa Monica, CA 90403 USA

Hemopet Office: (Wed/Thurs)

Phone: 714-891-2022 -- PST

Fax: 714-891-2123

11330 Markon Dr

Garden Grove, CA 92841 USA

AHSCFPRInc. rehabilitates unwanted, abused and abandoned pets, and then places them in loving and responsible homes to live out their lives, as cherished family members.

Intercept  Dog Training of Hershey's Legacy LLC

VACCINATION INFORMATION

Although the benefits of pet vaccinations far outweigh the risk, certain events, some potentially fatal, can be associated with vaccination. Some of these may appear when your pet is vaccinated and occur within 8 hours and some symptoms may appear as late as 45 days after. If your pet receives vaccinations, you should be reassured that vaccine reactions are considered to be relatively rare. A list of adverse reactions that may be associated with routine vaccinations is as follows:

1. Fever (low grade 24-48 hours after vaccinated)

2. Soreness at injection site

3. Polyarthritis- sore joints

4. Vaccine site bumps

5. Vaccine site tumor

6. Iritis (inflammation of the eye)

7. Acute Autoimmune Hemolytic Anemia (dogs only)

8. Anaphylaxis (acute allergic reaction, i.e.-hives, facial swelling, vomiting) potentially fatal if untreated.

If any reactions occur, PLEASE CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN’S OFFICE IMMEDIATELY!

I came home from the grocery store on Saturday and started to enter the house through the garage. It was so nice to receive a warm, happy greeting by a sweet little Bichon mix. She was delighted to see me

and there was something very touching about receiving such an enthusiastic welcome.

The only problem was, the dog wasn't mine. I don't know who she belonged to or where she came from.

She was well groomed and had recently had a haircut. She was wearing a cute little pink designer collar without a tag. Someone cared about this pup; she was clearly an escapee from somewhere.

I learned a lesson from that little dog. I often talk about the importance of identifying your pet. Since a collar can come off, I advocate microchips. But, now I think I'll have a new message which is a having a microchip in case the dog ends up at a shelter or veterinarian, plus a tag on the collar for the benefit of neighbors who might find a dog who has gone AWOL.

As a part of the Canine Good Citizen Responsible Dog Owner's Pledge, the safety section says that responsible owners will provide identification for their pets.

There are 3 main ways to identify your dog:

1)collar tags with owner contact info

2) tattoos

3) microchips

copied from a post from AKC Wordpress and Canine Good Citizen.

Should I or Shouldn't I Microchip???

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